I like deli food. At least the deli food I’ve had the chance
to come into contact with. But as the movie here explains the deli is a dying
breed when it comes to restaurants in the country these days. That should make
folks who love real delis or who watch this film bring a resurgence in trying
to find these restaurants before they can fade away into being nothing more
than a memory.
DELI MAN is a documentary that focuses on Ziggy Gruber, a
co-owner of the biggest deli in Houston and grandson of one of the original big
delis in New York years ago. Ziggy loves his business. He loves the tradition
that he’s carrying on. He loves the history of it all. And all of that shows
not only in this film but in the business that he runs.
Keep in mind we’re not talking about that section of the
grocery store that sells cold cuts and potato salad. Certainly their basis
began with the real delis of old. What this movie is about are the outstanding
delicatessens that have fallen by the wayside for the most part, dropping from
the thousands to a mere handful in today’s world of fast food menus. Delis of
old created special sandwiches and carried items like matzo ball soup, served
real meats that were cooked fresh and sliced to order and featured many kosher
delicacies as well.
The movie might focus on Ziggy, coming back to him and his
tale often but it also presents a pretty comprehensive history of the American
deli at the same time. Through still of the past, old footage and interviews
with deli customers and owners you get a timeline and a better understanding of
what a deli actually was. It also makes you long for those delis to return in
full force. Sure the local McD can make you a quick burger but the end product
while passable will never have the same flavor of a corned beef on rye made on
the spot rather than shipped frozen across country.
Watching this movie gave me hope. It’s the same reason a
show like DINERS, DRIVE-INS AND DIVES is so popular. People love food. But more
than that they love real food at reasonable prices. They long for the places
that used to dot the country from one end to the other, places that served
fresh food to hungry customers, that recognized you when you walked in. Like to
spots found on that series, delis offered the same thing.
Watching this movie you grow fond of Ziggy and want nothing
but long lasting success for him and for his deli. You want him to find
happiness and by the end it appears that he has. It will also make anyone who
is able to do so want to take a trip to Houston just to stop in and sample what
he offers. My guess is that those who are fortunate enough to do so will be
glad they did. The movie presents an Oscar worth feature that covers the topic
well and deserves notice.
Click here to order.
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